if a place deserves this name, than Ollague.

But unlike many guide books say, Ollague is a real
village, with a small store, and two hospedajes.

It is a good place to experience the Atacama, to see
how the people live here. There is no bar, pub or any
kind of entertainment, so if you want that, go to San
Pedro.
This is a place for people wanting to look a little
deeper into Chile, for people searching a place to
relax for a few days, for photographers,
railway-enthusiasts or adventurers.

The journey there alone is an experience, since you
will travel like the Bolivians travel, not like the
tourists, the train and bus is packed with Bolivians
going back from "shopping" in Calama and the scenery
is amazing!

People and culture:

When you are in Ollague you will more feel like in
Bolivia than in Chile, with many inhabitants being
Quechua-Indians.
In fact, Ollague is the last place in Chile, where
Quechua is taught in school, and where traditional
rituals are praticized (in nearby Coska).
There are no tourists there, the few who choose to
take the train or bus from Calama to Ollague and on to
Uyuni (Bolivia) usually do not stay here, but travel
on to Bolivia.

Here you can meet Quechua-Indians, and if you are
staying in the "Lican Huasi" you might have the chance
talk with some of them in the cosy dinning room of the
hostel.

You can also purchase products from them like tea or
wool products to keep you warm up here on the
altiplano.

Getting there:

I would highly recommend to to the journey Ollague –
Calama, since you will be able to see flamencos on the
Salar the Ascotan, many 5000 and 6000 m peaks,
including smoking Ollague from the back side!

If you go Calama – Ollague, you will go during the
night, and it will be very cold!


From Calama:
1. The bus:

The faster option; leaves 12:00 in the night, and gets
there at around 6:00 in the morning.
Leaves twice a week, sundays and wednesdays
The bus is not heated!!!

My recommentation: Buy blankets in Calama for the
trip. A sleeping bag will also do, however, the bus is
crowded and quite dirty (this is not TurBus!), so few
will like to do this.
Buy blankets, and if you go on to Uyuni, wash 'em
there and give it to somebody living on the streets if
you want to get rid of them.
The coldest part is the time from 6:00 am (coldest
time of day!) to around 8:30 when the aduana opens.
In winter it can be as cold as –20 degress in Ollague
(coldest month: July)

I wore my down jacket on the trip, no blanket, and
frooze terribly (was there in June).

To go back:
Wait for the bus on monday or thursday. It should
depart from Ollague anytime between 11:00 and 14:00.
Ask the bus driver a bit before that for your pasaje.
Take a seat on the left side to see the Salar Ascotan
and the flamencos there, as well as the north side of
Volcan Ollague, where the smoke comes out!

To go on to Uyuni:
Bus should also leave around that time from Ollague

Ask for details in the bus company's office (see
below)

2. The train:

The last train running in the Atacama that also takes
passengers.
Leaves only once a week – wednesdays

Long journey; leaves from Calama 23:00 in the night,

gets there around 7:00 in the morning, but often also

later.
In Ollague people travelling to Bolivia have to change
to a train coming from Bolivia at around 10:00 or
later (nobody knows exactly).

Less cold than the train! Still, blankets are
recommended.
Note: Taking a bicyle will most likely be not
possible!

To go back to Calama:
The train leaves on mondays only at around 18:00. The
problem here is that you will get to Calama around
1:00 in the night, and finding a connection bus to
either
Antofagasta or San Pedro will be impossible!

To go on to Uyuni:
Leaves around 10:00 or later in Ollague

From Uyuni:

1.the bus:
Ask for details in the company´s office (see below!)

2. the train:
Leaves in Uyuni at 8:00 in the morning, only on
mondays

Details and adresses:
1. Buses Manchego

Calle Alonso de Ercilla 2142
Calama
(55)-318466 or (55)-316612
Office open 10:00 am – 1:00 pm, and 4:00 pm – 8:00 pm,
sundays and wednesdays until 12:00 in the night
Price for ticket Calama – Ollague: 4500 Pesos; if you
take a bike, expect to pay 2000 Pesos more

2. Tren Internacional

Balamaceda 1777 (TurBus has an office on the other
side of the street and stops there on the way from San
Pedro de Atacama)
Tel. (55)-348900 or Fax. (55)-343056
Price for ticket Calama – Ollague: 4000 Pesos
Taking a bicycle is most likely not possible!


Where to stay:
1. The "Lican Huasi":

Very nice hostel, clean, comfortable, nice owners.Hot
water all the time.
Shared rooms, each one with bathroom, but you will
most likely be the only guests anyways.
Any meal (whether breakfast, lunch or dinner) costs
just 2000 Pesos
Located at end of northernmost street, direction
Bolivian Border

6000 Pesos/night; highly recommended!


2. Restaurant "Brin-Bran":

Restaurant with rooms; basic, often no water until
midday, since water comes out of barrel, that freezes
during night
Located on the same street as the Lican Huasi, just at
the other end (2 min walking)
3000 Pesos/night

Infos zum Thema Reiseinfo: Forum | Tipps | Touristik Service | Fotoalbum | FAQ |